Cellular Jail

Cellular Jail andaman

History

Cellular Jail, Port Blair: History, Memory, and a Traveler’s Guide

Why the Cellular Jail Matters

The Cellular Jail in Port Blair, Andaman and Nicobar Islands, stands as one of the most powerful memorials to India’s freedom struggle. Known as Kala Pani (black waters), it was conceived as a high-security prison of isolation and exile. Today, it is both a National Memorial and a deeply moving heritage site that invites travelers to learn, reflect, and pay respects.

From Rebellion to Remote Exile: Origins

The Aftermath of 1857

After the 1857 uprising, the British sought a distant, controllable location to isolate political prisoners and deter dissent. The Andaman Islands—remote, surrounded by treacherous seas, and far from the mainland—were chosen as a penal colony. Early temporary camps were harsh and rudimentary; the Cellular Jail was planned later to institutionalize solitary confinement and surveillance.

Construction and Timeline (1896–1906)

Construction began in 1896 and was completed in 1906. Materials, including bricks, were shipped from the mainland and Burma (present-day Myanmar). The completed complex originally consisted of seven radiating wings connected to a central watch tower, embodying the principles of a carceral society based on isolation.

Architecture: The Panopticon on an Island

  • Seven-spoked design: A central tower with seven wings radiating like spokes for all-round surveillance.
  • About 698 solitary cells: Each cell was roughly 13.5 ft by 7 ft, with a small high ventilator, designed to prevent prisoners from seeing or communicating with one another.
  • Three storeys per wing: Narrow corridors, heavy iron doors, and barred ventilators emphasized isolation.
  • No dormitories: The design prioritized solitary confinement as punishment and control.

Life Inside: Regimen, Punishment, and Resistance

Daily Regimen and Punishments

Life in the Cellular Jail was punishing. Prisoners endured rigorous labor, scant rations, and minimal medical care. A notorious task was turning the kolhu, a heavy oil mill used to crush copra—monotonous, exhausting work that broke bodies and spirits. Disciplinary measures included fetters, standing handcuffs, and extended solitary confinement for even minor infractions.

Hunger Strikes and Solidarity

Despite isolation, political prisoners organized protests for humane treatment and political recognition. Hunger strikes in the early 1930s, particularly in 1933, shook the administration and mobilized public opinion on the mainland. The martyrs Mahavir Singh, Mohan Kishore Namadas, and Mohit Moitra are remembered for sacrificing their lives during these agitations.

Notable Freedom Fighters Imprisoned

  • Vinayak Damodar Savarkar (Veer Savarkar): Incarcerated 1911–1921; his writings and petitions from this period remain central to debates on colonial resistance.
  • Ganesh Damodar Savarkar: Imprisoned as a co-accused in revolutionary cases connected to the Abhinav Bharat movement.
  • Barindra Kumar Ghosh: A leading figure in early Bengali revolutionary activity and editor of Jugantar; later released.
  • Ullaskar Dutta: A revolutionary and explosives expert; his incarceration and memoirs highlight the jail’s cruelty.
  • Sachindra Nath Sanyal: A key ideologue of revolutionary nationalism; his prison experiences informed his classic memoirs.
  • Batukeshwar Dutt: Associated with the Hindustan Socialist Republican Association; at various times incarcerated in the archipelago.

These names represent only a fraction of the thousands transported here under various conspiracy cases and sedition laws.

World War II and a Changing Jail

In 1942, the Japanese occupied the Andaman Islands. The Kenpeitai (military police) used the prison for detentions and interrogations, and some political detainees and members of the Indian Independence League faced brutal repression. Subhas Chandra Bose visited Port Blair in December 1943, raised the national flag in the city, and symbolically renamed the islands Shaheed (Andaman) and Swaraj (Nicobar). Yet, for many, the wartime years brought fresh suffering within and around the jail.

Closure, Partial Demolition, and Rebirth as a Memorial

By the late 1930s, after sustained protests and political pressure, many prisoners were repatriated or released, and the penal settlement began winding down. Earthquakes, war, and later demolitions reduced the seven wings to the three wings you see today. After Independence, the site was preserved—following public campaigns for remembrance—and was declared a National Memorial in 1979. Restoration, curation, and public history initiatives have since turned the complex into a sober museum and commemorative space.

What to See: A Visitor’s Route Through the Cellular Jail

Central Watch Tower and Surviving Wings

Begin at the central tower for a grasp of the radial design. Walk the surviving wings to experience the claustrophobic corridors and individual cells. Notice how cell doors never directly face each other—an architectural strategy to restrict communication.

The Cells and Named Plaques

Several cells and galleries identify notable inmates and their stories through photographs, text panels, and personal effects. Marble plaques list the names of prisoners transported across decades, transforming bare walls into a roll-call of sacrifice.

Oil Mill (Kolhu), Fetters, and Punitive Devices

Displays of the kolhu, chains, bar fetters, and feeding apparatuses used during hunger strikes offer visceral insight into the jail’s regime.

Execution Area and Hospital Block

Parts of the gallows and the hospital testify to the stark realities of colonial punishment and the thin line between discipline and mortality.

Museum Galleries and the Eternal Flame

The museum’s galleries present the wider context of anti-colonial resistance, while the Swatantrya Jyoti (eternal flame) commemorates martyrs of the freedom struggle.

Light and Sound Show

After dusk, a narrated Light and Sound Show in Hindi and English brings the prison’s stories alive. Seats are limited and shows are popular, so consider booking in advance. Schedules and languages may vary by season.

Practical Information for Travelers

Timings and Tickets

  • Typical visiting hours: roughly 9:00–12:30 and 13:30–17:00; often closed on Mondays. Last entry may be 30–45 minutes before closing.
  • Light and Sound Show: evening slots; check current timings and languages.
  • Tickets: available at the counter and via official Andaman Tourism/Administration portals. Fees for entry, camera use, and shows are subject to change.

Getting There

  • By air: Regular flights connect Port Blair (Veer Savarkar International Airport) with Indian metros such as Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi, and Bengaluru.
  • By sea: Long-distance passenger ships occasionally operate from Chennai, Kolkata, and Visakhapatnam (multi-day voyages, limited schedules).
  • Within Port Blair: The Cellular Jail is a short drive from the airport and close to Aberdeen Bazaar. Auto-rickshaws, app cabs, and local taxis are readily available.

Best Time to Visit

October to May offers relatively dry, clear weather. Monsoon (June–September) brings heavy rain and choppy seas. For cooler walks and photography, visit early morning or late afternoon and stay for the evening show.

Accessibility and Amenities

  • Ground-floor areas are generally accessible; upper floors are reached by stairs and may be challenging for visitors with mobility impairments.
  • Basic amenities like restrooms and drinking water are available; carry sun protection and hydration.
  • Photography is usually permitted in open areas; restrictions may apply in galleries and during the Light and Sound Show.

Guides and Interpretation

  • Government-approved guides are often available at the gate; fees vary.
  • Audio guides or QR-based interpretation may be available seasonally; inquire at the ticket counter.
  • Reading prisoner memoirs before or after your visit greatly enriches understanding.

Responsible and Respectful Tourism

  • Remember this is a memorial. Keep voices low; avoid disruptive behavior and inappropriate selfies.
  • Do not touch artifacts, deface walls, or climb restricted areas.
  • Follow staff instructions; observe all photography restrictions.
  • Carry your litter out; minimize plastic use; conserve water and energy.
  • Support local livelihoods by hiring certified guides and purchasing from local artisans.

Nearby Heritage and Nature in Port Blair

  • Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (formerly Ross Island): ruins of colonial headquarters amid lush greenery.
  • North Bay Island: lighthouse views (depicted on the old ₹20 note), snorkeling and glass-bottom boats.
  • Viper Island: site of an older jail and gallows from pre-Cellular days.
  • Chatham Saw Mill: one of Asia’s oldest saw mills; a window into timber and colonial industry.
  • Samudrika Marine Museum and Anthropological Museum: natural and cultural histories of the islands.
  • Corbyn’s Cove and the seaside promenade for sunset strolls.
  • Flag Point (Port Blair): commemorates the 1943 hoisting of the tricolor during the INA period.

Read More: Memoirs and Histories

  • My Transportation for Life (related writings) by V. D. Savarkar
  • Bandi Jeevan by Sachindra Nath Sanyal
  • The Tale of My Exile by Barindra Kumar Ghosh
  • Memoirs by Ullaskar Dutta and other transported revolutionaries
  • Curated publications by the Cellular Jail National Memorial

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should I plan for a visit?

Allow 1.5–3 hours for the museum and grounds. Add 45–60 minutes if attending the Light and Sound Show.

Can I see all seven wings?

No. Only three of the original seven wings survive today.

Is it suitable for children?

Yes, with guidance about its solemn history. The exhibits can be intense; discretion is advised.

Are drones allowed?

Generally no. Drone use requires prior permission from authorities.

A Final Word

To walk the corridors of the Cellular Jail is to encounter the architecture of repression—and the indomitable will to resist it. Visit with curiosity and care, and you will leave with a deeper understanding of India’s freedom struggle and the human cost behind it.

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