Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island)

Ross Island Andaman

History

Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island), Port Blair: A Historical Tapestry for the Traveler

Just a short boat ride from Port Blair, Ross Island—officially renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island in 2018—stands as a hauntingly beautiful reminder of colonial ambition, wartime upheaval, and nature’s quiet reclamation. For visitors, it offers a rare chance to walk through a compact open-air museum where banyan roots lace over churches and clubs, and seaside paths link bunkers, barracks, and bougainvillea-shaded lawns.

Why Ross Island Matters

  • Historic core of the Andamans: British administrative headquarters from 1858 to 1941.
  • Wartime crossroads: Shaped by the 1941 earthquake, Japanese occupation (1942–45), and the 1943 visit of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose to the archipelago.
  • Atmospheric ruins: Churches, clubs, a bakery, printing press, hospital, and waterworks—now intertwined with tropical forest.
  • Living heritage: A curated landscape managed with the cooperation of the Indian Navy, with a small museum and a popular light-and-sound show.

A Short History

Before the British

The Andaman Islands have long been home to Indigenous communities, though Ross itself was not a permanent settlement site in pre-colonial times. The island’s sheltered position in Port Blair’s harbor later made it a natural choice for colonial administrators.

Penal Colony and Administrative Capital (1858–1941)

Creating a Seat of Power

Following the 1857 Uprising, the British revived the Andamans as a penal colony. In 1858, they established their administrative headquarters on Ross. Over the next decades, using convict labor and imported materials, they built a compact township: the Government House (residence of the Chief Commissioner), officers’ quarters, barracks, a church, club, bakery, printing press, hospital, water distillation plant, gardens, and promenades.

Life on Ross: Privilege and Control

Ross functioned as the polished administrative and social center, while the harsher realities of incarceration unfolded primarily at nearby Viper Island and, later, the infamous Cellular Jail. Officers on Ross enjoyed clubs, tennis courts, and ballroom gatherings; the island’s tidy avenues and public buildings projected imperial order onto a remote tropical outpost.

Earthquake and Retreat (1941)

A major earthquake in June 1941 damaged many structures and disrupted services. Administrative functions gradually shifted away from Ross, even before the onset of World War II’s most turbulent phase in the region.

Japanese Occupation and the INA Episode (1942–1945)

The Japanese occupied the Andaman Islands in 1942, using Ross strategically and constructing bunkers and defensive positions whose remnants you can still see. In December 1943, Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, leader of the Indian National Army, visited the archipelago under Japanese auspices and ceremonially raised the tricolor in Port Blair. He symbolically renamed the islands Swaraj and Shaheed at the time—an act later echoed in modern renamings.

Post-War to Present: From Seat of Power to Memoryscape

British control returned in 1945, but Ross never regained its old role. After Independence, nature steadily reclaimed the abandoned avenues. The Indian Navy later assumed stewardship of the island area; today, visitors encounter curated ruins, wildlife, and interpretive exhibits that balance access with conservation.

What to See Today

Smritika Museum

Maintained with the cooperation of the Indian Navy, Smritika contains photographs, maps, and memorabilia narrating Ross’s colonial heyday, the earthquake, and the wartime years. It’s an ideal first stop to frame your walk.

Ruins Draped in Green

  • Government House (Chief Commissioner’s Bungalow): Once the nerve center; today, only arches, steps, and floor plans hint at its grand proportions.
  • Church remains: Mossy walls and façades where stained glass once filtered the tropical sun.
  • Officers’ Club and Ballroom: Evocative terraces and pillars where colonial soirées unfolded.
  • Bakery and Printing Press: Compact structures that served daily life and administration.
  • Hospital and Waterworks: Practical infrastructure, including the remnants of a distillation plant, underscoring the island’s self-sufficiency.
  • Cemetery: Weathered headstones tell quieter stories of life and loss on a remote station.

Across the site, banyan roots fuse with brickwork, creating a powerful visual of time and tropical ecology reclaiming empire.

Japanese Bunkers and Coastal Defenses

Concrete bunkers and gun emplacements dot the shoreline. These offer vantage points over the harbor and convey the island’s strategic wartime significance.

Light-and-Sound Show

On select evenings, a light-and-sound show animates the ruins with narration, music, and projection—condensing centuries into a dramatic hour. Schedules and ticketing vary by season; check locally in Port Blair before planning a night visit.

Flora and Fauna

Look for chital (spotted deer), peafowl, and other introduced species that now roam the lawns. Please observe from a distance and do not feed wildlife. The island’s canopy—banyan, palm, and tropical hardwood—provides shade but also creates uneven, root-laced paths: wear sturdy footwear.

Planning Your Visit

Getting There

  • Distance: About 2 km across the harbor from central Port Blair.
  • Boats: Short, frequent launches depart from the Water Sports Complex/Aberdeen Jetty area. Combo tickets often pair Ross with nearby North Bay (coral viewing).
  • Duration on island: Many visitors spend 2–3 hours; longer if attending the evening show.

Entry, Timings, and Permissions

  • Access control: The island area is under the Indian Navy’s stewardship; day visits are typically permitted.
  • Tickets: Expect separate charges for boat transfer, island entry, camera use, and the light-and-sound show.
  • Hours: Generally daylight access; evening access for the show on scheduled days. Check current timings locally, as they can change with season and operations.

Suggested Walking Route

  • Start at the jetty and head to Smritika Museum for orientation.
  • Walk uphill through the Officers’ Club and Government House ruins to coastal viewpoints.
  • Traverse to the Church and cemetery, then loop past the bakery and printing press.
  • Finish along the shore to see Japanese bunkers before returning via shaded avenues.

Combine with Nearby Heritage

  • Cellular Jail (Port Blair): The penal complex that complements Ross’s administrative story.
  • North Bay Island: Coral reefs and snorkeling—often part of the same boat circuit.
  • Viper Island: Earlier penal-site ruins, accessible on some routes.

Best Time and Practical Tips

  • Season: October–May generally offers calmer seas and clearer skies.
  • Footwear and water: Wear closed shoes; carry drinking water and sun protection.
  • No overnight stays: There is no accommodation on Ross; plan for a day visit.
  • Responsible travel: Follow plastic-use restrictions, avoid feeding animals, and stay on marked paths to protect fragile masonry.

Stories in the Stones: Reading the Site

Architecture and Materials

Ross’s buildings blend imported brick and stone with tropical adaptations—wide verandahs, high ceilings, and sea-breeze orientation. Decorative elements that once advertised imperial confidence now stand as silhouettes, their lines softened by roots and lichen.

Two Sides of a Colonial System

Visiting both Ross and the Cellular Jail provides a fuller picture: Ross exhibits the administrative and social superstructure; the Jail reveals the coercive underpinnings of a penal colony. Together, they contextualize the Andamans’ unique place in the story of Indian freedom and empire.

Key Dates

  • 1858: British administration established on Ross following the 1857 Uprising.
  • Late 19th–early 20th c.: Township expands—Government House, church, clubs, utilities.
  • June 1941: Major earthquake damages buildings and services.
  • 1942–1945: Japanese occupation; fortifications built.
  • December 1943: Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose visits the archipelago; raises the tricolor in Port Blair.
  • Post-1945: British return; later, the island declines and is partially reclaimed by nature.
  • 2018: Ross Island officially renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe and family-friendly?

Yes, with common-sense precautions. Paths can be uneven; supervise children near edges and bunkers. Wildlife is accustomed to visitors but should not be approached or fed.

How long should I allocate?

Two to three hours suits most travelers; add time if you want to watch the evening light-and-sound show.

Can I photograph the ruins?

Photography is generally allowed for personal use; a camera fee may apply. Follow posted guidelines, especially near any restricted zones.

What’s unique about visiting Ross compared with other Andaman sites?

Its compact scale concentrates colonial, wartime, and ecological narratives into a walkable circuit—few places in India offer such layered history in such a small, atmospheric setting.

Final Thought

Whether you come for the vistas or the vaults, Ross Island rewards slow steps and curious eyes. Here, the Andamans’ past isn’t sealed in display cases—it’s etched into seawalls, shaded by banyans, and carried on the breeze that once fluttered imperial flags and, later, a tricolor of a different future.

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